what brands of shoes to wear working at fred meyers
This is the belted suede jacket I had fabricated earlier this year past Fred Nieddu, based on pic and bespoke pieces he had made while cutter at Timothy Everest.
It's quite an unusual style, simply after a couple of months of wearing it in unlike permutations, I'm now quite used to it.
Although its roots were in a safari jacket fabricated for The Crown , the pattern is better thought of as a belted smoking jacket, I think, just with a wide notched lapel.
To the human being on the street, it's mayhap simply a suede jacket with a belt. But it's cut with a slight overlap on the front - as a short robe or house coat might take - and it's this that gives it a particular character.
Belted, the wrap gives it more of the appearance of a robe; unbelted, with the fronts left to hang, that half DB gives the whole front a slouchy look, with excess cloth in the chest and hips.
That's accentuated by the shoulders, which we deliberately cut a little wide, every bit I usually adopt with my tailored jackets.
At that place'due south also relatively niggling structure - no shoulder pad and only sheet in the neckband, not the lapel. The suede is also relatively heavy.
Then if the jacket is simply worn open, the belt loose, it looks near shapeless. Only the craft and construction of the collar saves it from being amorphous.
I've found I need to use the belt actively as a result: either to cinch the back a lilliputian, so the fronts are pulled back a petty; or to wrap around and tie, keeping the fronts overlapped.
As I said, information technology's taken a fiddling time to get to this point, only that's half the fun of an unusual pattern. And it'southward an original one, in the sense that Fred has never made this particular design and cut earlier.
In fact, it's worth pausing a moment to reflect on the various unusual projects I've taken on with bespoke tailors over the years.
There were one or two with Graham Browne, the wrap coat with Whitcomb & Shaftesbury, the suede blazer with Cifonelli, and well-nigh notably the gilet and leather jacket with Davide Taub at Gieves & Hawkes.
I'd say overall, my success charge per unit is less than 50% - if nosotros ascertain success as still wearing and liking a slice now, several years subsequently.
That's not great, though right now I think Fred's jacket falls into the successful half, as far equally I tin can tell after a couple of months.
But I also call back all the projects incorporate the same lesson, which is that creating something from scratch is very risky. Specially with someone who is a trained craftsman, but non necessarily a trained designer.
That'south not to say the tailors do anything wrong. Just that they don't necessarily know how the last result is going to turn out; and fifty-fifty if they do, they might non be able to communicate that completely. Yous're probably even less equipped to imagine, sketch out or communicate yor vision.
It can be very rewarding, and it'due south certainly interesting and absorbing. But information technology's a risky and expensive game to play. I feel I can only recommend it to readers that accept that money to play with.
Simply back to Fred'south jacket.
The decisions nosotros made during the fitting stage - described hither - were all correct I think. It was practiced to remove the ii chest pockets, good to add to the length and to raise the collar.
The unexpected element was the suede, which equally I said has proved quite heavy. This make the pockets bag a little, and the chugalug more tubular than apartment. Fred was forced to source from a new tannery, which made this a flake uncertain, and of course with a suede jacket the fittings are ordinarily in a toile rather than the terminal material.
If anyone is because making a piece like this, I would recommend trying to find somewhere you tin effort on a sample garment first, in the final material. Someone like Sartoria Melina in Naples, for instance, usually works with one type of nubuck and has samples of most designs to try (at least in Naples).
This is no guarantee - I still managed to order a surprisingly bright shade of orange nubuck from them. But it does substantially reduce the risks.
The handwork on Fred'due south jacket is beautiful, particularly because I know how hard it is to work in suede. Many, many thanks to Zoe for working through the pain.
One of the nice things about putting the collar up is that it shows all that handwork underneath: the swirl of auto stitching keeping the canvas in place, and then mitt stitching of the neckband to the trunk (in gild to create more curve, and hug the cervix).
One affair I might modify is to move the belt upwardly, as currently it doesn't comprehend the seams on the forepart and dorsum, where the different panels of suede adhere.
The internal tie that fastens the two sides, helping the belt, has also proved a little flimsy. But both things are easy to change and I know Fred will be more than than willing to do so.
I really like this jacket. Oftentimes that doesn't come across in a review, one time you lot've listed all the little things you're going to change, or would do then if you commissioned it again.
But I do. I love how unique it is, all the same how the night-dark-brown suede ways it'south near as versatile every bit a bomber in the same colour.
I simply feel compelled to warn readers thinking of undertaking a like project, because mine haven't always worked out that well. It would be a lot, lot safer to purchase a fix-made suede jacket, or perhaps an MTO or MTM version. Even just to have a RTW one altered.
At £2500 for a suede jacket like this, going to a bespoke tailor for something experimental is personal, wonderful, enjoyable, but not cheap.
Nigh of Fred's piece of work is making much more conventional tailoring. Some lovely examples can be seen on our initial article on his piece of work, here . His bespoke tailoring starts at £3500 for a accommodate, and £2400 for a jacket (both excluding VAT).
For the images, I took advantage of some studio fourth dimension photographer James Holborow had, which is always fun. James is at present dorsum in the Britain, subsequently a couple of years in New Zealand, and his website is here .
The other apparel shown are a black Dartmoor knit, flannels past Whitcomb & Shaftesbury and Belgravia loafers by Edward Green.
Source: https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/03/fred-nieddu-belted-suede-jacket-review.html
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